davidhb
davidhb
38 posts
Joined January 2008

Roller Handle Installation

I'm posting this here as well as in the XL650 forum since my question would also apply to the XL750 even though my reloaded is an XL650. I hope this is OK.

After many years of using the standard ball-end handle on my XL650 I finally decided to spring for the Dillon roller handle to see if it was more comfortable.

When it arrived I installed it putting a washer above and below the mounting hole as shown in the Dillon catalog and web site and tightened the nut firmly. The handle rotated fore and aft when I used. So I tightened the nut even more. It still moved. So I tightened the nut EVEN MORE. No help. Finally I took it apart, degreased the reloader, both washers and the nut with acetone and tightened it all up gorilla tight with a 7/8"socket and a breaker bar. I do mean TIGHT. No improvement.

Then I called Dillon and was told "put both washers on the bottom". I did and that allowed the shaft to sort of dig into the "crank" bracket (p/n 13674) and, by getting it very tight, the handle is now steady. I'm not nuts about distorting the crank but it does work. So, why do all of the pictures show one washer on top and one on the bottom and why doesn't that work? Any better suggestions?
C7@71
C7@71
10 posts
Joined August 2019

RE: Roller Handle Installation

Good question. I finished my setup last week. Have had to tighten once. Several sites talk about star or split washers. The ASME and Fasteners manufacturers say that flat washers outperform split washers for torque retention

The ball gets no rotational torque. Will ask DILLON sometime.

My next plan was a short length of PVC pipe over handle to get more torque.

Plan B will be a dot or two of Gorilla glue on shaft face and mating washer surface.

Keep us posted