rusting

I also load in the garage and I keep just a very light coat of oil, automotive grade, on my machine and dies.  I also have a Dillon machine cover for when I'm not loading.  This works for me.

First, use WD-40 and stainless steel wool to remove the existing rust. We suggest a light coating of automotive paste wax to act as a moisture barrier.

There are a number of Teflon or other based protectants available. As already suggested, use a light oil with steel wool to remove current rust, then spray or wipe on a protectant coating which penetrates the surface of steel (blued or white). 

I have a Teflon based product made by Boeing which I got at a gunshow YEARS ago.  Just spray it on, let it dry, and wipe off any excess residue.  My experience is that it last longer than auto wax.

I think the reason they shy away from petrolium-based lubricants/moisture displacers is primer contamination.  You won't get that from paste waxes.  Recently I found a lost treasure of dies I had stored under the house...some were pretty funky and tumbling in a vibratory tumbler has cleaned them up.  I'll either spray them with something waxey or WD-40 for preservation.  But...living in southern California gives me lots of time.  Our humidity is low here.  I have some Wilson dies for 6PPC and they say wipe with light oil for preservation.

Bruce

I live in Pawleys Island (coastal) South Carolina. Yesterday, our humidity was 94%. The other day it was 100%. That is like a rain forest. Years ago, I kept my equipt in my garage (which was not heated or cooled.) I constantly fought rust. I cleaned every thing off with 4-0 steel wool (I now use bronze wool) and then coated the metal with a permenant magic marker. When that dryed, it helped prevent rust. In areas that were not critical for dryness, I used a light brushing of heated shoe polish. These days, I mainly use the turtle wax and synthetic oil. I spray my dies if I am not going to use them for a while. Then before use again, I wipe them clean. 

I would also be concerned about my powder and primers in excessive humidity. Those are commodities which are expensive, and sometimes hard to acquire.

I'm in Valdosta GA.  We have loads of rain and humidity is in the 80-90 % most of the summer.  My shop is in an out building and even though it's insulated I still had things getting a little surface rust on them. Especially my tools that got lots of usage.  The shop is both a bike shop and reloading shop and I keep my Goldwing in there also.

I purchased a dehumidifier from Lowe's and set it up in the shop with a hose running through the wall to the outside.  It stays on most of the time and judging from the Jasmine outside by the hose, it's taking most of the moisture out of the shop.  My rusting problems are gone and it's more comfortable to reload and work in the shop also.

Just a thought.

I have fan set up on a timer to run about 5 hours a day no rust problems since  I started doing that.

When I received my new RL 550B and started to put it together I went out and bought SS (stainless steel) bolts and nuts to replace the junk that came from Dillon.  At the cost of alloy metals today Dillon could solve a lot of this rusting problem by upgrading a bit at a minimal cost.